Day 13 – Over The Struie to The Crask Inn - place of legends

Fiona was kept awake in the night by the revellers in down town Inverness.  This was Monday; I wonder what it is like on a Friday or Saturday night?  However boisterous, I doubt they could have kept me awake!  After a delicious porridge with honey for breakfast, and retrieving my bike from the store room at the Mercur hotel in Inverness, I was ready to leave by 9.30am.  Fiona was taking her Mum to the railway station for the long trip back to Coventry.  I expected to be at the Crask Inn before Sheila got home.

The Kessock Bridge across the Moray Firth at Inverness

Cycling out through Inverness was strange – it was the first time I had been in the centre of a town with buses and coffee shops for a while.  I followed the road out past the new flood defences and towards the Kessock bridge across the Moray Firth.  High up on the bridge in the middle of the crossing I stopped to photograph Inverness and to look out along the estuary towards the North Sea.  Crossing over onto the Black Isle, I enjoyed the sunshine – particularly as the weather forecast was for a front coming in from the west during the afternoon.  I was soon in Dingwall and then cycling up the short but steep hill out of town.  Breathing like a steam train I was soon at the top and then enjoying magnificent views over the estuary and looking down at the tiny cars and lorries on the long bridge further out to the East.  I spent a few minutes answering text messages which all arrived together as I had picked up some phone data service.

Enjoying the view of Dornoch Firth

I was soon through the last village and then onto the mountain road known locally as the Struie.  This 19 mile section up and over the mountain has grand scenery and I was blessed with sunshine and a tailwind.  Yesterday I said cycling couldn’t get much better, but today it did!  I felt for all the cyclists who must have struggled over the top into the teeth of a headwind, but counted my blessings and enjoyed the view while pedalling easily.  As I started the descent down towards Bonar Bridge, I paused at the Cadha Mor viewpoint and was soon joined by Fiona in the car as she had followed the same route.  We enjoyed the warmth of the sunshine and a good picnic lunch while soaking in the view of the Sutherland Munros to the north.

The pedestrian bridge to Lairg Railway Station

On starting out again, I had a speedy descent to Bonar Bridge and turned left heading for Lairg via Invershin.  The entire afternoon would be a steady climb up to 223m above sea level, though I added to this by missing a turn and completing a whole climb before realising my mistake.  I passed the Falls of Shin, famous for the leaping salmon and infamous as the visitor centre burned down last year melting a waxwork of the owner, Mohammed Al-Faid, wearing a kilt!  Approaching Lairg and before seeing any buildings I was surprised to find a narrow pedestrian suspension bridge with wooden treads signed as 500m to Lairg Railway Station, which must have been just over the hill.  Inspired by Indiana Jones I parked the bike and walked across the bridge and back again enjoying the tread bouncing as I walked.  Fortunately I was not chased by savages firing arrows as Indiana Jones had been.

Within a few minutes I was in Lairg and cycling past the loch which looked like it had been dammed to run a small hydro-electric power system.  I swiftly left the village as the weather looked like it was closing in and I had 10 miles to go to The Crask Inn.  As I headed north the landscape became more barren and the views more Scandinavian.  I met a group of cyclists heading south, including one guy on a recumbent tricycle!  We chatted for a while and I learned that they had already met Fiona over a cuppa at the Crask Inn and knew of my ride.  They sent me on my way with supportive comments and I pressed on for the final miles. 

The Crask Inn - Famous amongst End to End Riders

The road surface was new and smooth and I arrived at The Crask Inn at ten to five – the earliest arrival of the whole trip.  I was greeted by Mike, the landlord, who took an interest in my bike, having not had a single speed cyclist to stay before.  I had completed 68.3 miles in 7½ hours elapsed and 5 ¼ hours moving at an average of 13.1mph and a maximum of 36.7mph.

He took my bike to store in the outbuildings while Fiona and I played fetch with Old Ken, Ned and Gail the three border collies.  It was a rather one sided game as Old Ken was too old to move, Gail was too young and daft to work out what was going on and Ned was an expert!  Mike provided a very welcome tray of tea and Ned came and put the tennis ball on the chair next to us.  Depending on how long you ignored him, Ned would move further from the ball, but was always quick enough to grab it back if you tried to take it.  He was very pleased to have somebody to play with.

We chatted happily with Stewart, a retired engineer and one of only two other guests staying.  He has been a regular visitor to the Crask Inn for 17 years and now visits twice a year taking photographs of the area.  We had a delicious, home cooked dinner of game pie made with Mountain Hare and Woodcock followed by Eves Pudding.  Michael invited us to join a game of guessing the number of eggs he would collect from the 25 hens.  The prize was a free glass of malt whisky, but we both missed out – Fiona having underestimated by just one egg!  The Crask is not on the mains electricity grid, so we headed to bed before the generator was switched off at 11pm.

It is a big final day tomorrow – over 90 miles to John O’Groats via Dunnet Head to visit the RSPB reserve.  If you have not already done so, remember tomorrow is your last chance to sponsor me while I am still cycling.  You can do so by visiting www.virginmoneygiving.com/jamesalty.  Thank you!